Malibu.

Date Submitted: 09/10/2006 02:19:44
Category: / Literature / Creative Writing
Length: 2 pages (649 words)
Every summer since I moved from California to Ohio I've gone back to California to surf and visit my family. This summer wasn't any different I left in early in August for a 3-week vacation. When I arrived at LAX airport I was picked up by my brother and drove to his house, which is 15 minutes away. As soon as I arrived at his house I showered, than started the 2-hour drive through traffic to …
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…my board and helped me back to the car. The next day the waves were huge even bigger than the night before. I surfed all day at Little Dume and I surfed Malibu point again that night. I had almost drowned the night before. I hoped never to be in the position I was that night again, but in order to experience the ultimate thrill you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price.
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